The Huichol People in Mexico

When Peter and I left Puerto Vallarta in mid-January, we launched ourselves on a series of moves that have lasted until a few days ago. Some of these were the unintended results of circumstances beyond our control. But it has been an interesting time, one in which we have had the opportuntiy to visit sites previously unknown to us, but it has also been a busy time, if only in the sense of settling into new digs, finding our way around, locating important things like grocery stores, laundries, local transportation, and then visiting museums and other important places. I have found that as long as we were in a state of movement every two weeks or so, I could manage all of the above, but adding to it a focus on writing about what were were doing and digesting, was beyond my current capabilities. Now that we are back in our place in PV, though only for the next two weeks, I have more time and mental space to go ahead with the blog. In the intervening two months we spent time in Mexico City twice, about ten days in Cholula, in Puebla twice, finally about two weeks in a small local hotel here in PV. We’re returning to Toronto in early April. 

                  Huichol people on yearly pilgrimage to their original homeland

 In my last blog I promised to write about the indigenous Huichol people who live in a number of areas near the Sierra Occidental range in Mexico, including near Puerto Vallarta, and in some of the south-western areas of the USA. In their Huichol language they refer to themselves as Wixaritari, ‘the people.’ The Huichol locate their homeland in the state of San Luis Potosi, an area north and east of PV. Once yearly, some Huichol journey back there to perform "Mitote,” Peyote ceremonies. Evidence that this ancient tribe has lived in the area for at least 15,000 years has been found in carbon dating of the ashes from their sacred fireplaces. 

                             Drumming at a Community Celebration

The movement of tribes and people over centuries that is a common feature of the indigenous peoples of Mexico, is true of all countries viewed from a millenial perspective. By the early 16th century, around the time that the Spanish were invading Mexico, the Huichol, or Wixzrika had arrived in northern Jalisco state, the location of Puerto Vallarta. Writings by a Spaniard, Alonso Ponce later in that century report that these people had joined with other indigenous groups to attack Spanish caravans and settlements in the area. 

Involvement with the Spaniards led to the rampant spread of European diseases like small pox from which the indigenous had no natural resistance. In time many of those who survived were forced into slave labour in the mining industry begun in the mountains by the conquerors. These events are also recounted in the oral histories of the Huichol. The lives of present-day Huichol groups are simple. During the summers when there are rainy periods, they live on their farms in small hamlets, making cheese from the milk of their cows. Usually the cattle are only killed and eaten for special celebrations. Their regular diet consists of tortillas made from different kinds of what was considered by all people indigenous to Mexico, the Sacred Corn, the staple item that allowed their populations to grow and flourish. Beans, rice, pasta, sometimes chicken or pig, along with chili peppers, wild fruits and vegetables of the region supplement their diets. Marriages are arranged by the parents when the children are very young, taking place when they are between the ages of fourteen and seventeen. 

                                        Huichol Bead Art Work

Extended Huichol families live together in farm settlements in a small hamlet. The communities consist of individual houses which belong to a nuclear family. Each settlement has a communal kitchen and the family shrine, called a xiriki, which is dedicated to the ancestors of the group. The buildings surround a central patio. Individual houses are traditionally built of stone or adobe with grass-thatched roofs. A district of related hamlets is known as a temple district. These in turn are all members of a larger community district, each ruled by a council of elder men who are usually also shamans. 

     Mexico City's Museum of Anthropology: Exhibit of Huichol House

The Huichol seek autonomy in their land, but have two governments, one native to their own people and one answering to the Mexican Government through "Municipal Agents" in the larger settlements. The government has established schools without much success in the Huichol Zone during the last 40 years, through both church and state. A private Junior High School has led to some friction among members of the tribe. Friction also exists between converts to Christianity, the scorned "aleluyas," and, followers of the old religion. With the building of roads in the Huichol areas, new influences are impacting their social fabric. Mules, horses and burros used to be the main forms of transport, but now trucks are becoming more prominent, importing food, medicines and beer. Previously the Huichols continued to live isolated lives very traditional in every aspect, but more recently they have had to adapt and to make changes. 

Like many indigenous American groups, Huichols have traditionally used the peyote cactus in religious rituals.These involve singing, weeping, and contact with ancestor spirits. Yearly some Huichol go to their earlier homeland to collect peyote. Before reaching their final destination, they pass by the sacred springs of Tatéi Matiniéri ("Where Our Mother Lives"), the house of the eastern rain goddess. The pilgrimage aswages a desire to return to where life originated and to heal oneself. The Huichols assume roles of gods along the trail that they usually take by foot. Upon arrival, the hunt begins and the first cactus that is found is shared among everyone. Then they harvest enough peyote for the year. Afterwards, they eat some peyote, a hallucinegenic substance, in order to have visions. Their shaman is believed by the Huichols to be able to speak to the gods and ensure the regeneration of Huichols' souls. 

                                               A Huichol Shaman

After the publication of Carlos Castenada’s books, the Mexican government has passed laws making the use of peyote for other than religious perposes, illegal. Nonetheless, its publicity has made it more difficult for the Huichol to obtain enough peyote for their celebrations. They have asked for government protection of parts of their trails. 

In the past decades thousands of Huichols have migrated to cities, primarily Tepic, Nayarit, Guadalahara, and Mexico City. It is these urbanized Huichols who have drawn attention to their rich culture through their art. Crafts of the Huichol include embroidery, beadwork, sombreros, archery equipment, prayer arrows, and weaving, as well as "cuchuries", woven or embroidered bags. To preserve their ancient beliefs they have begun making detailed and elaborate yarn paintings, a development and modernization of the traditions.

                                                 Huichol Yarn Art

In my next blog post I'll write about a long weekend spent in fabulous Mexico City.